Fireplaces, Inserts, Stoves, Gas, Pellet, Wood... Just ask.

Do gas fireplaces work without power?

Tue, 02 May 2023 02:22:11 GMT

Are gas fireplaces good for emergency heat?

Is there a need for backup heat?

The winter of 2023 has been a long one. In the Sierra Nevadas, record amounts of snow fell, leaving some residents without power for weeks at a time. Extreme weather seems to be a more regular occurrence these days, with different parts of the country experiencing tornadoes, strong thunderstorms, floods, hurricanes, earthquakes, blizzards, or even demand-related power outages. This is particularly troubling when we consider that most modern home heating systems use electronic ignition systems, and will not work unless you have a generator. Since only about 5% of homes do, that leaves a lot of folks with no good way to heat their home without electric power.

What's the best way to heat my home without power?

I f you've ever tried to use an open hearth wood-burning fireplace to heat a space, you certainly know how inefficient it is. I've often wondered how our colonial forebearers managed to keep a home warm in the winter with only these types of fireplaces. My conclusion is that they burned ridiculous amounts of wood, wore every stitch of clothing they had, kept their bed within 6 feet of a fireplace, and woke up every 3 hours to add more fuel. If that sounds like a good plan to you, then you can indeed use your masonry fireplace to keep warm when the power goes out. For this reason I have seen a tremendous increase in demand for EPA certified wood stoves and inserts. They use far less fuel, and heat a much larger area. Especially for folks who use propane, this type of wood burning appliance can be a huge benefit in emergencies. However we know that there is an unquestionable advantage in terms of convenience when it comes to gas fireplaces, and that they can heat as large an area as a good wood stove. Fortunately, most of these will work just fine even without power.

How do I light my fireplace when the power is out?

We've discussed the different types of ignition systems before. If you need a refresher go back to my post about lighting your fireplace. How Do I Turn On My Gas Fireplace? (thefireplacewizard.com) For millivolt ignition fireplaces, the process will not change at all. Those don't need power ever, so you'll have no issue getting those to work. For electronic ignition fireplaces, you'll need to find the battery backup. Of course it's always recommended to familiarize yourself with this procedure before the lights go out, as different models have different locations for their battery backups. Mendota even uses a system that puts a wall-mounted port next to the fireplace, so you just have to plug in the supplied battery box, no need to open anything on the fireplace itself. Most fireplaces though will have a battery box inside the access area underneath the window of the fireplace. Most will use triple A batteries, but there will be some that need 9V, so make sure to have some of those on hand. Once you get the batteries in, you can turn on the fireplace as usual. The only thing that will be different is that the fan won't work. Still, the fireplace will produce as much heat as ever, it just won't move it to the other side of the room as quickly.

Do all gas fireplaces have a battery backup?

The most common fireplaces that do not have battery backup systems are those with power vents. Batteries just don't have enough power to operate the power vent, and without it the system will not work. It's something to be aware of when installing a power vented fireplace. Outside of that though, virtually all gas fireplaces that I'm aware of have battery backups as standard equipment, although there are a few that offer it only as optional. If emergency heat is important to you, make sure to let your dealer know that you need that, so they can recommend the right fireplace for the job. That way, when your neighbors are panicking, they can come over to your place to stay cozy.

Do I need a Power Vent? What Even is That?

Fri, 21 Apr 2023 18:37:15 GMT

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We've talked about vent-free and electric fireplaces, which are a great solution when you need a fireplace in an area that doesn't have good access to the building envelope. But there's another way, the Power Vent. A typical venting system has limitations, it's basically just operating on air pressure and good old physics. You need a certain amount of rise for a given run, to make sure that there's enough draft to pull the exhaust out of the home, which in turn creates a vacuum that pulls in replacement air from outside. Practically, this means that your run is limited by the rise, for example if you can only go up 5', you may be able to go over 10', it varies by fireplace model. It also means that you are limited in how many elbows you can put in the pipe, typically 270 degrees is your max. So if your fireplace is below grade, but there's a bedroom directly above, or you're on an interior wall and 30' away from the outside wall, your gas fireplace just may not work.

Enter the power vent. It's just a fan really, which helps to suck that exhaust through and increase the power of the vacuum to pull in fresh air. This extends your maximum vent run to roughly 100', even horizontally. It also means that you can go down into a crawl space and out, although once you go down you typically can't come back up. Finally it allows you to put a bunch of bends in the run, often 6-10 ninety degree elbows instead of 3. So if you have to twist around some HVAC in the attic, or maneuver to get over to a pre-existing chase that you want to re-use, the power vent is your way.

You'll have to check with the dealer of the fireplace you want to see which options you have, but there are basically three types of power vent: Inline, End of Line Horizontal, and End of Line Vertical. The Inline power vent goes somewhere inside the home. This is usually going to be in an attic or a crawl space, sometimes in a closet. You'll need to be able to access it for service, and you'll want to make sure it's far enough away from the fireplace, and in a relatively sound-proof space so that you don't hear the hum. The end of line horizontal comes out the wall and sits outside the house. It's pretty common, and several manufacturers even offer a flush-mount one that sits nice and flat on the outside of the wall. Otherwise they're pretty bulky, so you won't want it in a high visibility area. The end of line vertical will come up through the roof or a chase. The upside is that it can be hidden behind a decorative shroud, the downside is that you have to get up on the roof to access it, and it does need support so coming straight out the roof often doesn't work very well.

A big thing to keep in mind is that your fireplace's control module will be talking with the power vent. There's a pressure switch that will make sure the fan is functioning before the burner is allowed to turn on. This means that if you don't have power your fan won't work, and consequently neither will your fireplace. Battery backup systems won't cut it for this application, so get yourself a generator.

As a general rule, avoid power vents if you can, ask your local dealer to come out and do an assessment to see if there's a way you can gravity vent that fireplace. But if it's what you have to do to stay cozy, then it's what you have to do.

Can I Upgrade my Gas Fireplace?

Thu, 20 Apr 2023 23:53:22 GMT

Whatt can I do to make my fireplace better?

This is a super common question, and folks generally don't like the answer. I'll try to soften the blow a bit, but I'll start with the bad news. If your fireplace is an older style, louvered, small unattractive logs, and a super weak flame, there's probably almost nothing you can do to the fireplace itself. The basic reason why is that every fireplace on the market is tested in specific configurations, and then listed with a testing agency like UL or Intertek. Anything you can do to the mechanical, electrical, or gas systems of that fireplace would then void the listing. That means essentially that we can no longer say that the fireplace is 100% safe. And even 1% is too much risk when dealing with the risk of a potentially deadly house fire. That even applies to things like the log sets and brick liners. If the manufacturer doesn't have the option to change it, it can't be changed. Most manufacturers commit to producing parts for discontinued fireplaces for about 15 years. So if you have an old B-Vent from the mid-90s, you're pretty stuck. You could have someone touch up the paint, clean the glass, clean out the burner ports to help a bit, but these would be pretty minor changes.

You could change out the surrounds though, so hey, that's something. A lot of track homes or spec homes will have a very basic surround, which is essentially just some tile around the fireplace and on the floor in front of it. They do this because 15-20 square feet of tile is really rather cheap, and they're looking out for the bottom line. You certainly could replace that with a nice stone or wood mantel (respect the clearances if it's wood), or some attractive slate, marble, or ledgestone. The trouble with that is, the fireplace that's behind the wall is larger than the surround. That means if the fireplace eventually does go kaput, and replacement parts are no longer available, you'll have to redo the surround again to pull out and replace the fireplace. So as long as you're opening that wall up, now's the time to put a new fireplace in it. That way you can select options like upgraded burners for better heat output, blowers, accent lights, different log sets, brick liners, faceplates, even things like home automation. Then you'll have a beautiful fireplace and a beautiful surround. Get your HELOC ready though, because it's going to cost you 15-20k to get that done. Best time to do it is when you're doing a kitchen or bathroom, and already have someone there who can do the adjustments to plumbing, a bit of wall patching, painting, and ha sort of thing. That makes the process quite a bit more economical than calling in a contractor to do this as a stand-alone project.

The moral of the story, I suppose, is that you can put some lipstick on that old thing, but there's no alchemy that can turn it into gold. To find out what you can do, get the manufacturer, model, and serial number, call up your local dealer and see what options you have. Short of that, just sit close and get cozy.

Do Gas Fireplaces or Gas Inserts Increase My Home Value?

Sat, 18 Mar 2023 22:18:52 GMT

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I'm going to assume for this question that we're talking about strictly monetary value. Because of course a fireplace will add intrinsic value to your home by making it a cozier place to live. It gives a focal point to the room and sets the tone for decoration. On top of that, we all know how the atmosphere and mood of a space changes when we're all sitting and staring into a flame.

On a monetary front, there are a couple value increases I'm going to consider. The first is added while you're still living in the home. Efficient wood burning fireplaces can add value simply by lowering utility bills. With the recent increases in heating gasses, especially propane, I have clients spending upwards of $600.00 per month to heat larger homes. A cord of wood delivered to your home is going to average a $300 - $500.00 depending on where you live. You'll probably burn around 2 cords of wood on a cold winter. But if you've got the energy you can get wood for free, or from somewhere like a local department of urban forestry. Reno offers cords of wood for $80.00, you just have to saw it into rounds, transport it, and split it yourself. Gas fireplaces can do a similar thing by allowing zone heating. That saves load on your furnace, and reduces gas usage by only heating the areas of the home where you are, rather than heating empty rooms. Your home furnace is going to use around 100,000 BTU per hour for a modest 2,000 square foot home. A gas insert can heat around 1,000 square feet on less than 30,000. So there is certainly a potential savings there. We should also assign a value to having a backup heat source in case the power goes out and your beautiful new electronic ignition furnace won't work.

Now let's talk about the sale price of your home. This one is fairly hard to pin down. A general rule is that the higher the overall price of the home, the higher the increase in value is likely to be. Folks that are buying starter homes are more often looking for simply a lower cost, and amenities like fireplaces are less likely to get them to increase their offer. As you go to higher end homes though, a beautiful fire feature can add significant value, estimates go up to $12,000.00. Particularly at this level, anything that makes a potential buyer say "oooh", is going to increase their offer, or make them more likely to just pay what you're asking.

What if you already have a fireplace though? Would it be worth it to upgrade to a gas insert? I'd say it depends on your purpose. If you're looking at it strictly from an ROI perspective, or as a flipper, the no, it does not make sense. You almost certainly won't be able to pull back all the money you invest in the upgrade. If you're looking at it as a homeowner who's planning on living in the home for some time before selling, then yes. You'll get the enjoyment out of it now, and you'll increase the value of the home somewhat when it comes time to sell. The convenience of the gas insert versus the open hearth wood burning fireplace is something that anyone who's owned one will attest to.

So keep your priorities in mind, as usual. If you're strictly looking for return on investment, there are probably other things you can do to your home that will increase the sale value more than adding a gas fireplace. But if you want something that will make your home more livable, enjoyable, and cozy, you won't regret this project.

How Do I Turn On My Gas Fireplace?

Tue, 07 Mar 2023 00:25:04 GMT

Let's get that gas fireplace burning

To answer this question, I'd first have to know what kind of fireplace you have. The easy way to go about that is to look in the access area down under the window of the fireplace. Down near the valve, you should find a metal tag, which will have a manufacturer name and a model number on it. Type those into Google, for example "Heat N Glo 6000TV Manual" to find the manual, which will have complete and specific lighting instructions for you. But what if you can't find that? Well, let's go over some general procedures for various appliances.

If you can't find a metal tag in the fireplace, there's a good chance you're using a gas log set, which is a burner dropped into a pre-existing wood burning fireplace. There are several ways these can be lit. If you don't see any kind of control mechanisms at all, you've got a match light burner. You should find a metal flange with a square hole in it somewhere near the fireplace. This is the gas valve. If you don't have a key, purchase a "universal gas key" from a local hardware store or online. Get a long barbecue lighter and place it over the burner. Then and only then, turn the key counter-clockwise to start the gas flowing. Just that simple, away it will go.

There may also be a safety pilot kit on there, in which case you'll see a knob on one side or the other, and there will also be a little pilot assembly attached to the burner. These work a lot like an old water heater. You find the pilot setting on the knob, then push it in (if you're not sure, just move it until it pushes in). Then you'll use the same barbecue lighter to light the pilot. Hold that knob in for 20 seconds or so until the sensor on the pilot heats up, then let it out. When you want the burner on, turn the knob to on. Then go back to pilot, on, pilot, on, etc. When the season ends, or you go on vacation, turn it off entirely.

If you don't see that knob, you probably have electronic ignition. For these, you should see a switch that says off, remote, on. That switch box will almost certainly contain batteries. Start with replacing those batteries, usually AA but sometimes 9V. At that point you can just use the manual switch to get the flame lit. If you don't hear a beep when you push the button on the remote, you may have to re-sync. There will be a button near that switch that will say reset, sync, or something along those lines. Push it, and you should hear a series of beeps, then push the power button on the remote, and you should again hear a series of beeps. Now be patient, the startup cycle can take up to 45 seconds. Once you hear the beep, just wait. You'll hear some clicking and clunking, and eventually the fireplace will light. If it hasn't been used in a while, you may have to go through several cycles to bleed out the air and get gas flowing again.

That's it for the log sets, let's move on to fireplaces and stoves. Many but not all of your newer appliances will be electronic ignition. For those, really all you should have to do is push the button on the remote or wall switch. The most common reasons nothing is happening are that the batteries in the remote control are dead, which is an easy fix, or that the remote is out of sync with the receiver. Follow the same process I described above for electronic ignition log sets to get that back in sync. If you hear a beep and clicks, but nothing happens, you may just need service. There really isn't much outside of changing batteries and syncing the remote that the average homeowner can do to fix these. There are some fireplaces that will lock out the control module if you push the button too many times, or if the fireplace just won't light for a variety of reasons. It may be necessary to find the control module of the fireplace, and get to the reset button there. The control module is generally a black box,roughly the size of a few cell phones stacked up on top of each other.

A lot of the fireplaces that were built before sometime in the mid 2000s used a millivolt ignition, which is similar to the safety pilot process I described for the gas log sets. You'll need to open the access door, or on a freestanding stove you should find the valve down on the bottom of the stove. Then you'll see that knob on the valve that says off, pilot, on. You'll set it in the pilot position and push it in. Then there will be a button with a spark or lightning looking symbol on it. You'll click that until you see the pilot flame ignite. Hold that button in for about 20 seconds, when you let it go the pilot should stay lit. Now turn the knob to the on position. From there there's typically a wall switch that you need to turn on to get the fireplace going.

Beyond that, I'm sure you already know my advice: Call in to your local dealer. If you can't get your fireplace going, chances are it hasn't gone in quite a while, and could use a good cleaning and service. The technician will be happy to show you exactly how to get it burning, so you can have a nice cozy evening.

Should I buy a fireplace online?

Tue, 28 Feb 2023 03:27:34 GMT

The prices look so much lower, should I go for it?

I'll start my answer to this one with a simple no. Buying a gas or wood fireplace online is a bad idea, and leaves you with several risks that using a local dealer would avoid.

First and foremost is the fact that you are not a fireplace expert. I say that confidently, even if you're a builder of homes, or you've been flipping them for years. There is a wide range of options available out there, and you will not be familiar with which ones will work in your particular situation. Working with a dealer ensures that you can find the right fireplace for the priorities you have, as well as the local rules and regulations. For example in my market, if you want to purchase a wood stove, you first need to make sure that it meets the county's rather strict rules, which only apply here in this county. Then, you need to have a Dealer Affidavit of Sale sent to the Air Quality Management District if you want to get a permit, to certify that it indeed meets those requirements. You will not be able to get either the advice or the form from an online vendor. Another great example is that vent-free fireplaces are allowed in New York state, but not New York city. You really want to have that professional knowledge to help with your decision.

Secondly, once the fireplace shows up at your home in a 300 pound crate, what will you do with it? In my case, if a client calls and says they purchased a fireplace online, and needs someone to install it, we will not be able to help them. We're basically being asked to put our stamp of approval on a fireplace which we cannot stand behind. We don't know if all the correct parts were ordered (some fireplaces require interior liners, some don't, some require flue adapters, some don't), or that they're in good working order. There are handymen or small contractors that may be willing to install it, but they won't be familiar with the proper installation procedures, and could put you at risk. Additionally they'll charge you much more than a licensed dealer would, because they're on unsteady ground and want to make sure they don't end up on the losing end of the transaction. You could try to install it yourself, but then you'll have the same lingering doubt over whether it was all done correctly. Coming up with some extra parts on an Ikea dresser isn't a big concern, but an Ikea dresser can't burn your house down. To go along with this, many fireplaces require specific venting components that may not be available from the online warehouse, and are required to complete the installation.

Third, good luck getting warranty service on an online purchase. The vendor you bought it from won't be much help, and in most cases you cannot call directly to the manufacturer to get help either. That leaves you going to local dealers, who either won't help, or will charge you much much more than if you purchased it from them in the first place. The biggest manufacturers have set up their distribution through a dealer network for this reason. They want to focus on production, they don't want to get held up with after-sales service. The dealer fills that role for them, and makes sure the manufacturer doesn't lose reputation when the inevitable faulty unit turns up.

Essentially, this all comes down to having someone you can turn to who will take responsibility for getting you the right fireplace, with all the right parts, in good working order, and safely installed. That responsibility is key, and it's what you don't get from online retailers. The savings that you can realize from the purchase are available because of this lack of responsibility. Your local dealer charges more because they're putting in the time to help you select, permit, install, and service your fireplace. For us, a sale is a months-long process, whereas a website puts in virtually no time in assisting you.

So do yourself, and your local community a favor. Resist the temptation to spend a bit less, and instead get a lot more from your local dealer. You'll thank me while you're staying cozy.

Do I need a hearth?

Mon, 27 Feb 2023 01:01:38 GMT

Can I run my wood floor right up to my fireplace?

First of all, let me dispel a falsehood that most of us believe. Heat does not, in fact, rise. Hot air does indeed rise, but this is only one of the three types of heat. Hot air flow is convection. There are two other types of heat we need to be concerned about in terms of hearth protection: Conduction, heat passing from a hot object to a cooler object which touches it, and radiation, an electromagnetic wave that travels in a straight line outward from a hot object. The reason we need to be concerned about these is that they can travel in any direction they want to, including straight down into your floor.

Now that we've gotten that out of the way, we have to know if you're using a wood burning fireplace, or gas. If it's wood burning, we can look to building codes for best practices. We know that in the US, your hearth extension (technically the hearth is the floor of the fireplace, the hearth extension sits in front of it) has to be a minimum of 16" in front of the fireplace, and 8" on either side. That hearth extension has to be able to protect from the radiant heat flowing out from the fireplace, as well as conducted heat if an ember or log falls out from it. To achieve this, the material used has to have a minimum R-Value, or insulating value, of 1.16. Doesn't seem like much, but your typical slate has an r-value something like .1 per inch. So to get to 1.16 you'd need close to 12" of slate to make the grade.

Wood burning stoves still need that 16" in front, but typically only 6" on the side, and often a lower R-Value than 1.16, that just depends on the manual. General rule is that anything wood burning will need to have hearth protection, regardless of the height of the appliance off the floor.

Moving on to gas, and there are no hard and fast rules here. Codes defer here to the manual for the specific appliance you're using. There certainly are some that don't require any hearth protection. These will be low BTU burners that use tempered glass rather than ceramic. The tempered glass does not radiate heat well, and the burner is separated from the floor by usually a roughly 3" air gap. Air has a phenomenal R-Value of 3.6 per inch, so you only need about 3/8 of an inch to protect the sub-floor from any conducted heat from the burner. There are very few gas fireplaces that require non-combustible material directly under the fireplace for that reason. However if you're using a larger BTU fireplace, particularly with ceramic glass, we still have to deal with that radiant heat in front of the fireplace. Most of those will simply require a non-combustible hearth extension, so even a tile over a plywood subfloor will do. This is mostly to protect against warping or discoloration of wood, usually temperatures won't get hot enough to reach ignition. There are some though, that will require a 2" thick hearth. Most all will allow a wood floor right up to the wall if you raise the fireplace as well, typically 6-12". It all comes down to the specific appliance you're using, so make sure to read those manuals carefully.

Keep in mind that these clearances are created with life safety in mind, not the safety of your floor. Not all non-combustible materials are created equal. Some, such as luxury vinyl plank, or LVP, are extremely heat sensitive. For these you'd want a 24" deep hearth, or to raise the fireplace at least 16". Of course the better safe than sorry principal exists here, so if you're concerned about the longevity of your floor, just lay down some tile. In fact, I always think that if you're putting your fireplace near the floor, it looks a bit funny without a hearth extension, a bit incomplete. I'm sure that's because I'm a fireplace guy, and I'm just used to seeing it there. Anyway, just stay safe out there, it's even more important than staying cozy.

How often should I clean my Pellet Stove?

Sat, 25 Feb 2023 21:51:08 GMT

Is it hard to maintain a pellet appliance?

Basically, more often than you would think. If you're the type that hasn't cleaned their humidifier in months, or replaced the filter in your air conditioning unit, you'd probably make a poor pellet owner. If you're using your stove most every day, there will be some amount of cleaning needed a couple times a week. The exact schedule is always given in your owner's manual, but let's go over some of the parts that will need a regular cleaning.

The thing you'll probably clean most often is the burn pot. The little holes in it will get clogged with ash and clinkers (silicates that melt and stick together). This will prevent enough air from getting, and also separate the pellets from the igniter, so either the flame won't light, or will burn very dirty. So you'll have to get in there with a metal tool and scrape it and unclog those holes 2-3 times a week if you're using it heavily. A stiff metal brush works quite well for this. While you're in there, go ahead and use the heat exchanger cleaning tool to give those heat exchanger tubes a clean as well. They'll get fly ash in them, which will make the stove less efficient. It won't hurt to give the glass a bit of a wipe then too. If you let that soot build up too much on the glass it will bake on and get much more difficult to clean. There are some good wood stove glass cleaners available that make that pretty easy. Get very used to these few steps, you'll need to do them a lot over the course of a winter. Basically if you think you're doing it too much, you're doing a great job. These steps will keep your stove burning cleanly and efficiently.

Also depending on how often you burn, you'll need to get in and clean out the ash pan once a week. For this, it's easiest to get a wood stove vacuum. These are bagless, all metal, so that if you get any embers in there, you won't have a mishap. The alternative is basically to scoop. Also, if your vacuum sits directly on the floor without wheels, make sure to set it on something non-combustible. Carpet is at risk.

This brings us to the most important, but least frequent parts of the cleaning. This is everything outside of the combustion chamber, that needs to be cleaned a couple times a year, once a year minimum if you're not using it often. Now this part can, and probably should, be done by a professional. Getting it done thoroughly will help your stove to last as long as it can. I've seen stoves start breaking down on the second season if not cleaned properly. This is the full strip-down and clean-out of the intake tubes, exhaust, behind the liners and cover plates, all the blower motors, auger motor. You've got to get all the dust, pet hair, pellet residue, soot, everything out of there. If you're going to do it yourself, you'll need a set of soft brushes and extension attachments for your vacuum so you can get all into the nooks and crannies, and really get it emptied out.

If you're willing to do this maintenance, pellet appliances can be great for heating, especially in this era of higher gas prices. Just remember to always get premium pellets, even if your stove says it can burn on lower quality ones. Also make sure to keep them in a dry area. If they're wet, save your stove, throw them away. They'll gum up the auger and blow the motor, and with lower quality pellets you'll have to clean even more often. Moral of the story; Keep it clean, stay cozy.

How Do I Clean the Glass on My Gas Fireplace?

Fri, 24 Feb 2023 04:33:41 GMT

Remove and Clean that Dirty Fireplace Glass

I have long ago lost count of the number of fireplaces I've seen whose owners can't remember ever cleaning the glass. It's something simple to do once you know how, that makes a huge difference in the appearance of your architectural focal point. I'm going to speak generally here, this will not apply to all fireplaces. But to make it a bit more specific I'm going to talk about fireplaces that are more than or less than 15 years old. I'm not sure exactly, but that seems to be roughly the cutoff when manufacturers moved to spring loaded systems designed to release the pressure in a hard start. So let's start with the older fireplaces.

Oh, and before we begin, please make sure to turn your fireplace off well before you start. Some fireplaces can stay hot for an hour or more after you turn them off, we don't want any sizzles. And grab a towel or blanket to set the glass on, there's also no reason to scratch anything up.

If your fireplace was manufactured before about 2007, it will likely have louvered grills on the top and bottom, and it probably won't have a mesh screen on it. First thing to do is remove those louvers. The top one likely will just lift up and out, and the bottom one should flip down from the top, you may have to push it in first like and old drawer. Once you have those off, you can make sure the pilot is turned all the way off if it's a standing pilot fireplace. Most of these fireplaces will have one of two systems. They may have wing-nuts around the glass that are quite obvious, and need to be removed, or they may have a clasp like you'd find on an old steamer trunk or briefcase. Those are usually above the glass, but sometimes below. Once you find those and open them up, the glass should swing forward from the top, and then lift out of the lip that's holding it at the bottom. That's the hard part done. Now generally these were made of tempered glass, so they're basically the same as a kitchen window. If you clean it regularly, most any cleaner will do. If you haven't cleaned it for 10 years and the fog is really baked on, you may need a cream type fireplace glass cleaner. Spread that on, let it sit for 5-10 minutes, then wipe it away. If it's still not doing the job, put more cleaner on it, and take a brillo pad to it, or the scrubby side of a sponge. All done, make sure it's good and dry, set it back in place, and you're done. Once you know how to do it it shouldn't take more than 15 minutes to do.

If your fireplace was manufactured after about 2007, it may still have the louvers, but it may also have a face plate that holds a metal mesh screen. If it has the screen, you'll grip it on the sides, fairly low, then lift it and pull it out. Most will just have a hook system on the top that goes over a shoulder bolt and holds the screen on with gravity. Some you'll have to pull out the bottom first and then lift it off the hook. Now, these fireplaces will have a springy clasp device, so the glass can push away and open a gap for pressure to release if the ignition doesn't go smoothly. Most of those clasps are meant to be manipulated with your fingers, but there are some that need a tool. Always keep your manual, and any pieces that come with it, for such situations. You'll pull the clasp toward you, then lift it off the tab that it's holding onto, then release. There are usually just a couple on the top, but there are some models that have some on the bottom too. Once it's released, let the top drop forward, then grab it on the sides and lift it out. With newer fireplaces you always want to use an ammonia-free cleaner. Many will have a ceramic glass, which radiates heat better than the old tempered glass. Ammonia is a pretty potent chemical, and ceramic glass is vulnerable to it. It can leave scratches, or eventually cloud over the surface permanently. So it's best to get a ceramic glass cleaner from your local fireplace dealer, or online. To set the glass back in, first slot it in on the bottom, there's going to be some sort of lip that holds it in place, then push the top into place. Now you can grab those clasps again, pull them forward, and drop them down onto the tab. Replace the screen, and that's that.

It's best to clean the fireplace glass at least once a year, but more if you're picky. It's really the only maintenance you should really be doing on your gas fireplace by yourself, so conquer your fears and get after it. If you're stuck, find the model number down near the gas valve, and type it into Google. That should get you the manual, which always has a section for how to remove the glass. Good luck, stay shiny, and stay cozy.

Are Vent-Free Fireplaces Allowed, and Safe?

Wed, 22 Feb 2023 03:13:25 GMT

Can I, and should I, use a vent-free fireplace?

The concept of vent-free gas fireplaces sounds really great. They're nearly 100% efficient, and you don't have to run a flue through your building's envelope. There certainly are times when that venting part can be a major issue, so there's a clear draw.

So the first question is; can I? The only state that doesn't allow vent-free gas fireplaces is California. Massachusetts was the other holdout, but they now allow it with exceptions. Residential code also does not allow them in bedrooms or bathrooms, in those the combustion air has to come from outside. On a local level there certainly are counties and municipalities that don't allow it, but you'd have to check with a local dealer for that info.

Now onto the more nuanced question; should I? As I mentioned above, there are certainly some good reasons for it. And in ideal circumstances, when the fuel/oxygen mix is perfect, there really isn't much harm. If so, the byproducts are carbon dioxide, nitrogen, water vapor, and heat. The only one of those things that can be problematic is the water vapor. Burning 100,000 BTU of natural gas will deliver about 2/3 of a pound of water vapor. So per hour, that's less than a quarter pound of water. If you're living in a dry climate like here in Nevada, that most likely won't cause any issues. But in a very well-sealed home you could end up with some condensation issues. The real issues come into play when the fuel/oxygen mix is not perfect. Too little oxygen can produce carbon monoxide, and we all know we don't want to breathe that. The good news is that most homes have carbon monoxide sensors, and any certified ventless gas fireplace will have an oxygen depletion sensor, that shuts down the flame if oxygen levels get too low. A larger threat is if there's too much oxygen. This can happen if the burner isn't set up right. In that case, Nitric Oxide is produced. Very few homes will have a detector for this gas, and it can cause some rather serious breathing issues. There is also no sensor on the fireplace itself to determine if NO is being produced.

To sum up, in almost all cases, you can use a vent-free gas fireplace. I tend to be a better safe than sorry type, so I do not believe that you should if there's any way to avoid it. Electric fireplaces are great vent-free options. I'm not a big fan of ethanol fireplaces either, maybe I'll do a post on those another time, if someone asks. If at all possible, go for a direct vent fireplace. It's the safest, and doesn't lose much in terms of efficiency either. If you have to, just make sure the fireplace is ANSI certified, which means it will have an oxygen depletion sensor and avoid the greatest risks. There's no need to put ourselves in jeopardy when we're just trying to stay cozy.

Are firepits good heaters?

Tue, 21 Feb 2023 01:43:12 GMT

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The short answer would be no. They're really decorative items, and in my view shouldn't be considered space heaters. The basic reason for this is that all the hot air is going straight up. So the convection flow is against you. You're getting some radiant heat, but it's spreading out in all directions. A typical Home Depot style fire pit is something like 30k - 50k BTU, which is going to heat up the front of you within something like a 5-6' radius circle around the fire pit. Not great considering you'll be paying around $2.50 an hour if you're on propane. (8-10 hours per tank, around $20.00 - $25.00 to fill up that bottle with current prices). The dollar equation gets a bit better if you're on natural gas, which you'll want to be for most firepits with larger burners. They can run 200,000 BTU plus on a large or custom fire pit. And when you go up to that kind of burner, you'd like to think you get significantly more heated area, but alas. I'd really like to do some testing on this, but my experience tells me that even a 200,000 BTU burner won't radiate heat more than about 6', giving a roughly 12' circle of radiant heat. One therm of natural gas is up to about $1.80 nationwide, and a therm contains roughly 100,000 BTU. So our 200k btu fire pit would cost us $3.60 per hour to run.

The alternative? Particularly for covered areas, you'll want a radiant electric or natural gas heater. For comparison sake, let's look at a natural gas radiant patio heater. Sunpak makes a good one, that uses 34,000 BTU per hour, and heats a 12x12 area. It's much more efficient because the radiant heat is being directed, rather than just going out in all directions. So now we're talking about a cost of roughly $.60 per hour to heat the same area. You could also go electric, a typical 6,000 watt heater will heat something like 11 x 11, and cost would be in the $.75 per hour range. Electric heaters also have a significantly lower installation cost. You don't have to run gas, but you will have to run 240V power for most of them. This makes a more economical option for larger areas, if you have a 10 x 20 covered patio for instance, two of those electric heaters will cover the entire area effectively.

So why buy a firepit then? Because sitting around an electric radiant heater might feel nice, but you get none of the atmosphere of the flame. You want that gathering point, the mood of sitting around a fire. So by all means buy one, they're really a lovely addition to the backyard. Just be reasonable about the heating performance they can offer, and the cost-effectiveness they provide in those terms. Of course we want to stay cozy, but we've got to keep that pocketbook in mind as well.

Are electric fireplaces fake?

Sun, 19 Feb 2023 20:18:17 GMT

What are electric fireplaces good for?

As the US moves toward a zero carbon future, electric fireplaces may be the only choice for some of us. The question then becomes, are they any good? Is the flame presentation realistic? Are they any good for heating? Excellent questions all, so let's go through them one by one.

First, are they any good? This questions to me is about quality and longevity of the appliance. Chances are, if you buy one from a big box store, you will be disappointed. Many electric fireplaces are manufactured overseas, and replacement parts are difficult to find. This means that when, not if, something fails, you'll end up replacing the entire fireplace. I'd expect to get a couple years out of one of them, tops. There are reputable brands such as Dimplex, Modern Flames, Simplifire, Netzero, Regency/Skope, and others who will take responsibility for warranty service, repair or replacement. Choose one of these, and you can expect your fireplace to work as it should for at least 5-7 years before you need to replace parts, and likely 10-15 years total.

The next question is a tougher one, as everyone will view their fireplace with a different eye. That said, there are electric fireplaces out there that will satisfy even the most discriminating among us. The standard method for creating a flame effect has for a long time been the flicker motor. It's basically a rod with tin foil tied to it. As it spins the foil reflects the LED lights onto an opaque or mirrored surface, which creates the rather poor illusion of flame. I would say the best of these is the Dimplex Ignite XL series, which seems to take the technology about as far as it can go. The good news is that there is new technology emerging all the time to take us to new levels. One of my favorites is the water vapor fireplace. Dimplex's Opti-Myst, or the NetZero Waterplace are great examples. This creates water vapor with an ultrasonic transducer, then lights it with LED. The result is somehow more tangible than the flicker motor, and gives us the random swirling nature of a true flame. You can plumb these to a water line so you don't have to refill the tanks, and the effect is really quite mesmerizing. Another new contender is the "holographic" fireplace. The original was the Dimplex Opti-V, which to this day is the only electric fireplace that even briefly fooled me. To be honest, I'm not exactly sure how it works, but it seems to be some kind of projector that's able to create a 3d image, which really does feel like VR. It's expensive, but it's incredibly good looking. Some other new entrants into this field are the Modern Flames Orion series, and Mendota is looking to release one in the Spring that's really quite exciting. The moral of this story is that if you don't mind the price tag, it is possible to get a highly realistic electric fireplace.

Finally, are they good for heating? The answer to this one I'm afraid is no. The standard electric fireplace heater is about 5,000 BTU. That's really only enough for bedrooms, dens, offices, RVs, and the like. If you're planning to use it to heat your living room, get ready for a whopping bill. Many can be hard-wired to 240V to double the heat output, but the cost equation doesn't change. Depending on where you live, the cost per unit of heat can be 3-4 times higher for electric forced air heating than gas heating. So if you're going to use it for more than an hour or two per day as a heater, I'd look elsewhere. Now the real benefit of these is that you can run them without any heat at all, which makes them great for ambiance. Particularly in bedrooms, where you don't want to get too hot, they can be great for the ambiance.

So as usual, I'd recommend getting down to your local dealer to take a look at these for yourself, but would I feel comfortable installing an electric fireplace in my own home? Absolutely, it just depends on the application. If I want to put a TV above it, or if I want to use it just for aesthetics, then sign me up. They're versatile, enjoyable, and the installation budget is lower than for gas or wood. Think about your needs, and make your decision from there. We all have our own ways to stay cozy.

Is Burning Wood Banned in 2023?

Thu, 12 Jan 2023 09:59:27 GMT

Is wood the forbidden fuel?

In most parts of the country this is an unqualified no. However many municipalities have stricter rules than others. I’m not aware of any place that has completely banned wood burning in fireplaces that were built before a certain time, which are as they say “Grandfathered in”. However several places like the Bay Area in California have banned any wood burning fireplace in any new home. Washoe County Nevada, where I live, will allow you to put one in a new home, but with very strict limits of less than .1 grams per hour particulate emissions. If your property is more than an acre, you can have one appliance which is EPA certified, which means it must emit less than 2.0 or 2.5 grams per hour, depending on the testing method.

Even if you have a compliant wood stove, there are many places around the country that implement no burn days, spare the air days, or red flag days as they’re often called. This is due either to increased fire risk in the area, or poor local air quality. In that case you can get a waiver if your wood stove is your only source of heat, otherwise you will face potential fines for burning on those days.

Check with your local fireplace dealer, they’ll have more information on specific local rules and regulations. Also do consider your neighbors. Your open hearth wood burning fireplace emits up to 69 grams per hour of particulate matter, which is known to cause many health problems. http://burningissues.org/comp-emmis-part-sources.htm Some of those particulates go outside to your neighbors, but some stay inside as well, reducing the quality of the air you’re all breathing. Wood is a renewable, local fuel source, so if you plan to burn it, do invest in a quality EPA certified wood stove or insert. Your lungs and neighbors will thank you, and you’ll also get more heat out of the wood you use (all those particulates are burnable material flying out of your fireplace). That way you can be conscientious, and cozy.

How Much Should a Gas Insert Cost?

site-q7bJ9Q — Thu, 12 Jan 2023 09:52:35 GMT

Is it worth the cost to convert my fireplace to gas?

Plan to spend around $7,500.00 in most cases, which is up 50-75% in the last two years. Obviously that changes depending on where you are, but that’s a reasonable expectation. There are three costs to prepare for. The first is the cost of the insert itself. That will be around $5,000.00 on average, but can go up to $8,000.00 for a premium appliance. In most cases, the fireplace dealer you purchase the insert from will not install the gas line you need. You’ll talk to a plumber for that. The cost there can vary from $1,000.00 up to a few thousand, depending on the specifics of the job. Then you’ll most likely want an electrician to install an outlet in the back of your firebox, so that you can plug in the insert without seeing the cord. That’s often a pretty small job, a few hundred dollars. Occasionally states and counties will run programs to help pay for the cost of converting your old wood burning fireplace to a gas insert. They want it done to benefit the community air quality. Definitely check with your local dealer to see if any of those programs are available in your area.

The gas insert is an excellent home upgrade, which I strongly recommend. When we buy our homes, the wood burning fireplace conjures up romantic notions of nights by the fire, snuggling with a loved one. We imagine using it all the time, with super cozy warm results. In practice however, we tend to use that fireplace a couple times a year, and it turns into more of a chore than a relaxing way to spend the evening. Most of us are just not in the habit, so the experience often fails to live up to expectations. The gas insert will give us the two things we really want from our fireplace; efficient heat and an attractive visual experience. And it will do it at the push of a button. No sourcing, splitting, stacking, storing wood, no spider nests on your porch, no smell of smoke. The end result is that we will use the insert much more often. Not only will that give us the ambiance we want, but a great zone heater that can take the load off our furnace as well.

The last thing to consider is that you are not spending money on a gas insert, you’re investing money into your home and quality of life. There’s no exact figure for how much a gas insert adds to the value of your home, but it’s certain to add something. You’ll enjoy your home more while you live in it, and it will be worth more when you sell it. Once you make the change, you will never go back, that I’m sure of. It’s just a great way to stay cozy.

Can I put a TV above my fireplace?

Thu, 12 Jan 2023 09:50:01 GMT

Can I fit both centerpieces on one wall?

Short answer: Yes. Personal opinion: No. There are several ways to put your TV above your new gas or wood burning fireplace, I just feel that your beautiful new fireplace deserves pride of place. If I had my way, the entire wall would be dedicated to my precious flaming baby. That said, not everyone home can be set up to accommodate both appliances on their own separate wall. If they must live together, our main goal becomes keeping the TV as low as possible, while still giving the fireplace the respect it deserves, without squishing it down to the floor. So here’s how it’s done.

The best way to manage it is with a Cool Touch Wall kit. Most manufacturers now have this option, and it’s especially great if you’re going with a contemporary look, as it allows you to keep the wall flat, with no shelf. The typical direct vent gas fireplace takes room air in below the fireplace window, and as it passes around the back and top, it picks up the heat from the firebox. That heat is then passed into the room from a hidden opening at the top of the window. That heat then begins to rise, and runs into your precious TV. Check your user’s manual, but usually anything above about 100 degrees is a no-no. The Cool Touch Wall system will create a heat release above the TV. Openings in the top of the fireplace will then allow the heated air to rise behind the wall, and thus behind your TV, and pass harmlessly out into the room through the heat release. This allows you in most cases to put the bottom of your TV 12-15 inches above the window, without a mantel. Different makers and models have different specs, so check those manuals.

Option number 2 is to use a non-combustible mantel to redirect the hot air coming off the top of the fireplace opening. Non-combustible mantel is key here, that means concrete, stone, wrapped steel studs, and the like. Wood mantels will have a much higher clearance, and the goal is to keep the TV low, so that won’t work. My favorite non-com mantel is made by Magra Hearth. It looks just like a wood beam, but can be set as low as 6” above the fireplace. The mantels are an average of about 7” tall, and you’d want your TV at least a few inches above the mantel, which puts the bottom of the TV a minimum of 16” above the fireplace. Not bad.

Realistically, you can expect something like 47” for a linear contemporary, or possibly 45” or so for a traditional to be the lowest you can put your TV above your fireplace. Again though, always check those manuals, and talk to a hearth professional to make sure what will work for your application. Google tells me about 55” from the floor is ideal for the middle of your TV, so you will be a bit higher than ideal no matter what you do. So please, if possible, offset your TV to the side, or put it on a completely different wall together. It will save your neck, and also really show off the investment you’ve made in your new fire feature. Stay cozy out there.